Update from Ndama

I think of Rwanda and our time there almost every day.  It is amazing that such a short visit has etched feelings and memories so deeply in my mind.  I never want to forget this, and I have lots of little reminders in my life - some Rwandan francs in my wallet, a piece of sandstone from the school site on my desk, a basket hanging up at home.  When I remember Rwanda my thoughts always begin and end with the children of Ndama, where the Hobsons-sponsored school is being constructed.

It was thrilling today to receive an email containing photographs of the nearly-complete school!  We visited quite a few schools in Rwanda and this one is definitely the most beautiful.

The front corner of the school

A built-in cabinet inside the school.  I am guessing that the rough part of the wall is where the chalkboard will be fastened.

The back of the school building...

Another view of the front.  The school building consists of three classrooms and an office for the staff at the far right.

Construction supplies on site.

I caught my breath when I saw this photo.  There in the wall of the school is the block that I made when we visited the school site.  I absolutely love this picture.

Reading about Rwanda

It's been just about 2 months since the last post and a little over 2 months since our trip. In the past week, I've been asked by 3 people for my reading list so I thought I'd post it finally; I meant to do this when we got back but didn't (because I'm lazy when it comes to blogs).

This is not in any way exhaustive or complete - I read books recommended to me or that I found through the recommended reading sections. I've also included some films. There are a lot of books and films out there and I don't think I'll ever make it through all of them no matter how hard I try.

Books:

• Land of a Thousand Hills - Rosamond Halsey Carr (my favorite pre-trip book)
• We Wish to Inform You That Tomorrow We Will Be Killed With Our Families - Philip Gourevitch
• Africa, Altered States, Ordinary Miracles - Richard Dowden (Not specifically about Rwanda but an interesting read about Africa. I have to admit I have a bit of a crush on Mr. Dowden.)
• Shake Hands with the Devil - Romeo Dallaire
  
• Life Laid Bare - Jean Hatzfeld, translated by Linda Coverdale

Currently reading or will read soon:

• An Ordinary Man - Paul Rusesabagnia with Tom Zoellner (Paul's story is the inspiration for the film Hotel Rwanda) - currently reading
  
• God Sleeps In Rwanda - Joseph Sebarenzi with Laura Ann Mullane - next in my "To Read" pile
  
• A Thousand Hills - Stephen Kinzer (a biography of Paul Kagame)
• Machete Season - The Killers in Rwanda Speak - Jean Hatzfeld
• The Dark Romance of Dian Fossey - Harold T.P. Hayes
• The Bone Woman - Clea Koff (forensic scientist who investigated Rwanda and the Balkans)
  

I've also been on the lookout for fiction from Rwandan authors and language resources for learning Kinyarwandan.

Films:

• Hotel Rwanda
• Gorillas in the Mist
  
• Shake Hands with the Devil (documentary version) - this version is based on Gen. Romeo Dallaire's return to Rwanda
  
• Shake Hands with the Devil (film version) - dramatization of Dallaire's book
• Shooting Dogs (called Beyond the Gates in the US) - this was recommended to me by another member of the group, Vee. I think all of us watched it at some point before or after the trip.
  

All of the above are available on Netflix (that's how I watched them). I'm still trying to find a copy of God Sleeps in Rwanda (a documentary about women and the genocide) that's not on iTunes (I hate watching movies on my computer!) and 100 Days. There is also a documentary about Rosamond Carr but I haven't been able to find it either.

Many of the above films were filmed on location in Rwanda specifically at the locations where the events took place. For films made after 1994, I have to wonder what that filming experience was like.

There's also a booming film industry in Rwanda, recently hosting the 7th annual Rwanda Film Festival (or Hillywood Film Festival-Rwanda is the Land of a Thousand Hills). Here's a link to an article about the festival. One film, Kinyarwanda, was an official selection at the 2011 Sundance Film Festival and should be released sometime in November 2011.

Please post additions to these lists in the comments section (if you have them).

After tracking the gorillas, I stayed the night at the Gorilla’s Nest Lodge.  They took my muddy shoes and cleaned them and built a fire in my room.  The lodge used a generator and was only on at certain times of the day, so I had to choose what to charge, my phone or my camera batteries.  Thinking my adventure was nearly over, I chose my phone.

I had a nice dinner and spent the evening tending to the fire and reviewing the images on my camera.

The morning after, I had a nice breakfast and then met Charles for the ride back to Kigali.  Charles had other plans though and soon we were driving into what looked like a small village with one massive hut.

Charles was taking me to the Rwandan Cultural Experience and the name was spot on.  We (Charles, Manuel (the cultural guide) and I were greeted at the entrance by a man wearing traditional Rwandan garb. (sorry, I have forgotten his name)

He guided us in front a massive hut.  The King’s Hut. He told us that the tribes needed their king to have a good house so that he may govern and judge the people, in public and in private.  But… Only the King may enter his house and only the King may give permission to others to enter his house.

So… They made me their King.   They took me aside and dressed me in the King’s traditional garments and gave me the King’s staff.  Once this was done, they bowed before me and asked permission to enter my abode, which I gracefully granted.

The King's House

Outside the hut, was a paved semi-circle, and just outside the door, they placed the King’s stool.  Here the King would sit and pass judgment or decree what laws he had decided upon to the public.  Here the people of the tribes could bring grievances to the King so that differences could be settled.

Just inside the hut was a formal sitting area where the King could take care of more private business.

Deeper inside were other rooms for dining and personal business, but probably the most notable area of the house was the King’s bed.  It was probably 20 foot square and had 2 entrances; one for the King and one for his wives.  Within the wives’ entrance way, there is a Column.  I believe they called it the ‘Column of Shame’ where a particular wife, whose attention the King desired, would wail and cry that they were ashamed to come to the King’s bed. (but eventually they acquiesced to the King’s needs)

As we headed for the exit, I could see that the warriors had assembled outside and when they saw me they began to scream and dance; each jumping as high as they could to show they King their worth and mettle. 

After surveying this demonstration, which was most impressive and a little intimidating, we proceeded to our meeting with the Medicine Man, whose art has been kept secret and passed from generation to generation for centuries.  He shared some of his secrets with me.  I will share one with you.

This is ‘Jungle Viagra’.  Or so I was told. 

Then I ground some seed, but I had no rhythm for this. 

Next I got to shoot a bow and arrow with one of the warriors.  I managed to hit the target on the second try (which is exactly what my instructor did, so I didn’t feel too bad about my shot)

This is us celebrating after our kill.  “Guma guma guma guma guma guma guma!!!!”  This is what is said to rejoice.  It is also the tag line of a Rwandan Beer, Primus (PREE muss or PREE moos).

Then, a dream came true and I got to play drums with the Rwandan drummers!!

When we were done, the tall one in blue, yellow and green, the lead drummer, said to me, “You ah a good drummah!”  And I was honored.

Then I danced!

I danced until my heart raced and my lungs begged for the thin mountain air.  I have never danced more in my life.

Finally, the ceremony was over and I relinquished my Kingdom.

Charles and I drove the long drive back to Kigali.  I got to see the beautiful mountains (that were all cultivated and farmed right to the very peak) in the daylight.  The hills in Gatsibo were excellent, but the mountains were magnificent. Massive, green, cloud-touched emeralds rose up to the sky and were  hatched with gardens of maize or banana or coffee.

Lastly, we stopped at the Virunga Hotel.  One of the more pricey lodges in Rwanda and the view alone was worth it.  It tops a hill that overlooks Rwanda’s twin lakes.

This image isn’t mine, but it is nice.

This is mine.

Ultimately, I was dropped at Kigali airport and then headed home on the 30 hour journey to get back to Northern Virginia.  The jet-lag still has a hold on me, but it is waning.

I will never forget this trip and am honored to have been chosen to be amongst such wonderful people (within Hobsons and without).

Someday, I will go back.

I hear the drums echo in the night…

For many of the nights in Rwanda I had trouble sleeping.  This wasn't due to the heat or mosquitoes or uncomfortable bed, none of which were that bad.  It was more due to the torrent if images that were racing through my head after a long day spent in the city or in the field with the children.  Though these images kept me awake, I never felt tired while there (except during that soccer game).  They were the drums that echoed through my night.... 

Or, maybe it was the doxycycline???

Since I am late to the game and everyone has posted about all the things we did together I thought I would only post about the things I did after our groups split up.

After the Akagera Safari with Matt, Erin and Stacy, Charles dropped me off at the Golf Hills Resort.  It was a nicer hotel, but there was an odd feel to it.  After showering, I decided to go have a drink and read while the brewing thunderstorm rolled in, but when I asked directions for the lounge, I got a reluctant response from the man at the front desk, as if that were a strange request.  He did show me to a nice spot where I could watch the storm and enjoy a Mutzig, but it never really felt comfortable.  When I was finished, he suggested I eat in my room, which I did.  It was almost as if they didn't want me out and about, but this could just be me speculating.  Regardless… It just felt weird.  Never inhospitable, in fact they were super polite, just weird.

After I ate, I crashed early as I was being picked up at 4 AM by Charles to be taken to Volcanoes National Park.

Promptly at 4 I went to the reception area and Paul, the guy from the front desk was sleeping on a couch in the reception area, I think I startled him when I came in.  Again, I thought this a little odd, but didn't care as I was headed out on my own personal adventure.  Charles was waiting outside and we headed out of Kigali in the darkness.

As we drove west, I had thought that the streets would be less crowded, but I was wrong.  There was still a steady flow of people with bundles on their head or pushing fully loaded bicycles toward the city… IN COMPLETE DARKNESS.  

We arrived at the park and assembled with the other Gorilla Trackers (the park allows 64 visitors per day to go see the gorillas and I think there were that many assembled).  Charles knew all the guides (big surprise) and got me into the group that would visit the Agashya band.  This band was said to stay close to the jungle wall, so we expected a short hike to find them.

We set off in a light drizzle, driving up the hills and over the most 'massaging' roads I had experienced thus far.  Charles dropped me off, along with our guide, 'Mistah Beck', and after a quick briefing on the gorillas; we set off, up the cultivated mountainside. (even in the high mountains, the hills are farmed right up to the jungle).

As we reached the jungle wall (literally, a wall made of volcanic rock to keep livestock on one side and other animals that might harm crops on the other) the rain began to pick up a bit.  Fortunately, I had done my research and was mostly prepared; waterproof boots, rain pants, coat and hat and most importantly, sturdy work gloves.  The others in our group were less prepared.  Though most had nice North Face jackets, they wore jeans and tennis shoes and only a few had gloves. The guides also gave us sturdy walking sticks.  I considered declining this, but was glad I took it.  Mine was of a rusty red wood with gorilla heads carved above and below the hand hold.  I found that holding the gorilla heads gave me better grip than the hold.  If I could have kept this stick, I would have.  It was invaluable.

As we crossed the wall, it was only moments before the mud claimed its first tennis shoe.  It was then I knew that this was no ordinary hike.  We had with us about 5 guides (one equipped with an AK-47) and about 4 porters.  While there was a path, I found that it was best to avoid the center since that was where the mud was deepest.  Walking on the edges worked well, but after watching the porters I found that making your own path was the best bet.  Walking directly on the foliage gave the best footing.  One of the porters noticed me doing this and while I thought I was going to be admonished, he gave me the thumbs up and said 'Yes!'.  It wasn't long before I wore a grin a mile wide.  I was wet and trudging through the thickest undergrowth I had ever seen but I could not have been happier.  

Notice the AK-47

About an hour in, my friend, Teoje (Tay Oh Jzay) pointed out some gorilla spore.  I thought this meant they were close.  I was wrong.  I also saw some gigantic earth worms.  They were about 9 inches long and about an inch thick.  I picked it one and it squirmed in my (gloved) hand with the strength of a snake.  (skeevie)

Teoje

It wasn't for about another 2 hours of climbing mountain walls that were virtually straight up or straight down, and traversing sloppy mud pits or scurrying through bamboo hovels that we sighted the first gorilla on a distant hill.  It was only a black speck in the valley wall opposite us.

I had been lurking in the rear of our marching order but once I knew the band was near I sped up and was soon at the front.  The guide found the silverback, Akashya, and about 10 of his friends and family on a small hill.  One of the other trackers deftly shot up this hill like it was a bump with footholds, while in reality it was a sharp incline.  He proceeded to use his machete to clear off another hill that was directly above the gorilla band.  I had made it to the front of our group and was dragged by the machete wielding guide right to the top of the hill.  While he helped the others up, he continued to make sounds like he was clearing his throat to let Akashya know that all was well and we were not there to cause any problems.  It seemed to work.

Video of the band and Akashya shows his teeth

Soon, 6 Americans and 2 Australians were perched on top of a hill watching the gorillas… sit there.  Apparently, when it is cold and rainy, the gorillas aren't very active.  So, we sat and clicked off picture after picture in the rain.  I was very worried about ruining my camera, but besides the lens getting fogged, it help up just fine.  I don't think one of our companion's cameras made it.  He had it out in the rain the whole time while I was at least stuffing mine inside my rain coat when not using it.

After an hour (probably a little less, but it was cold and the gorillas weren't moving, so I wasn’t complaining) the guides started escorting us down the hill.  I knew that this brought us into closer contact with Akashya and he would be a little agitated so I started getting some video and that is when he let out that big yawn.  That was about as interesting as he was going to be that day.  I got the shot, so I was happy.  I took about 50 pictures and only about 10 came out worthy of sharing.

We were sitting on that little hill above them.

They left as we walked away.

On the hike away from the little gorilla hill, I could look back as we ascended out of the valley and could see them there.  Just as we were going to about to be out of sight of the little hill, I saw the gorillas getting up and moving away as if they were waiting for us to leave. 

The hike out took another 2 hours to a different part of the jungle wall, then over some beautiful countryside to the new spot where our drivers were waiting.  This also happened to be where the touristy gift shop was as well.  

Subino (su BEEN yo)

I was cold, soaked, covered in mud, but I could not have been happier.  Charles had second thoughts about letting me into his truck.

-- The point of a journey is not to arrive.

Supermarkets and coffee shops

I'm back in Alameda and of course, fell asleep almost as soon as I got home. I'm hoping this doesn't mean that I'll be up all night but that's probably exactly what it means.

There are four places a person should visit when they go somewhere new - it doesn't matter if it's a new country, state or city. The four places are a school, a church, a supermarket and a coffee shop. I was able to visit all four while in Rwanda and I appreciate that fact as I look through my pictures and read through my journal.

Unfortunately, two of those places were used against people during the genocide. Churches and schools are supposed to be safe places but the perpetrators of the genocide often used these places of refuge to slaughter innocent people. What we saw in our time in Rwanda was a return of churches and schools to communities. Students should feel safe going to school and they do. You can see the respect for teachers and administrators. While we didn't go to a service, one of the principals we met, Father Isidore, was a compelling and engaging man. He is passionate about his mission and his students. Truly an inspiration. I have faith that both schools and churches will continue to be cornerstones of communities and villages.

On our last day in Rwanda, Stacy and I asked Charles if he would take us to buy coffee somewhere if we had time. We definitely had time and for that I am so grateful to Charles for making my last day even more memorable. We said goodbye to Tim at his hotel and we drove back to the city center. Charles took us to a supermarket first to buy coffee. The supermarket was a lot like supermarkets in other countries I've been too; a combination of supermarket and other stores in one place. If a person only shopped once a month they could get everything in one stop. And when I say everything I mean it - food, coffee, hair extensions, clothing, toys, alcohol, housewares. You name it, you could probably find it there. Going to a supermarket always makes me feel like I'm more a part of the place I'm visiting. And that first cup of Rwandan coffee is going to taste really good!

Our final stop was Bourbon Coffee, right next to the supermarket. For those of you who have seen Long Way Down this is the coffee shop that Ewan and Charley go to when they get to Kigali. I really wanted to go there after seeing the episode and Charles suggested that we get a cup of coffee before heading to the airport. I never mentioned wanting to go there to him but Charles just knew that was the place (or it was convenient which is probably the better explanation). We sat outside, looking out onto a rainy Kigali and enjoyed a cup of local coffee and a nice conversation with Charles. I think it surprised him that what so many people know about Rwanda is the genocide; no one seems to go further than 1994. He kept asking us to be ambassadors for the country - I don't think he needed to ask! It was great to share this last part of the day with Matt and Stacy too. We arrived together and we left together. I like those kinds of endings. (Bourbon Coffee's US website) This was the perfect way to end our visit.

Saying goodbye to Rwanda was very hard to do. There was so much to see and take in and experience. At one point Matt said that we need some new vocabulary to describe the experience. Words like amazing and beautiful and awesome seem sort of weak despite the fact that they're perfect ways to describe what we've seen and done this past week. Maybe I'll learn Kinyarwandan.

Waiting in the Kigali airport with Erin and Stacy for our flight to Amsterdam via Entebbe. Rwanda will forever be in my heart. Sad to leave, but can't wait to see my family.

Terrific last day in Rwanda. Drove to Akagera Nat'l Park and saw giraffe and many other amazing animals. Lunch at Jambo Beach again. Saw the Rwandan Parliament there!