After tracking the gorillas, I stayed the night at the Gorilla’s Nest Lodge.  They took my muddy shoes and cleaned them and built a fire in my room.  The lodge used a generator and was only on at certain times of the day, so I had to choose what to charge, my phone or my camera batteries.  Thinking my adventure was nearly over, I chose my phone.

I had a nice dinner and spent the evening tending to the fire and reviewing the images on my camera.

The morning after, I had a nice breakfast and then met Charles for the ride back to Kigali.  Charles had other plans though and soon we were driving into what looked like a small village with one massive hut.

Charles was taking me to the Rwandan Cultural Experience and the name was spot on.  We (Charles, Manuel (the cultural guide) and I were greeted at the entrance by a man wearing traditional Rwandan garb. (sorry, I have forgotten his name)

He guided us in front a massive hut.  The King’s Hut. He told us that the tribes needed their king to have a good house so that he may govern and judge the people, in public and in private.  But… Only the King may enter his house and only the King may give permission to others to enter his house.

So… They made me their King.   They took me aside and dressed me in the King’s traditional garments and gave me the King’s staff.  Once this was done, they bowed before me and asked permission to enter my abode, which I gracefully granted.

The King's House

Outside the hut, was a paved semi-circle, and just outside the door, they placed the King’s stool.  Here the King would sit and pass judgment or decree what laws he had decided upon to the public.  Here the people of the tribes could bring grievances to the King so that differences could be settled.

Just inside the hut was a formal sitting area where the King could take care of more private business.

Deeper inside were other rooms for dining and personal business, but probably the most notable area of the house was the King’s bed.  It was probably 20 foot square and had 2 entrances; one for the King and one for his wives.  Within the wives’ entrance way, there is a Column.  I believe they called it the ‘Column of Shame’ where a particular wife, whose attention the King desired, would wail and cry that they were ashamed to come to the King’s bed. (but eventually they acquiesced to the King’s needs)

As we headed for the exit, I could see that the warriors had assembled outside and when they saw me they began to scream and dance; each jumping as high as they could to show they King their worth and mettle. 

After surveying this demonstration, which was most impressive and a little intimidating, we proceeded to our meeting with the Medicine Man, whose art has been kept secret and passed from generation to generation for centuries.  He shared some of his secrets with me.  I will share one with you.

This is ‘Jungle Viagra’.  Or so I was told. 

Then I ground some seed, but I had no rhythm for this. 

Next I got to shoot a bow and arrow with one of the warriors.  I managed to hit the target on the second try (which is exactly what my instructor did, so I didn’t feel too bad about my shot)

This is us celebrating after our kill.  “Guma guma guma guma guma guma guma!!!!”  This is what is said to rejoice.  It is also the tag line of a Rwandan Beer, Primus (PREE muss or PREE moos).

Then, a dream came true and I got to play drums with the Rwandan drummers!!

When we were done, the tall one in blue, yellow and green, the lead drummer, said to me, “You ah a good drummah!”  And I was honored.

Then I danced!

I danced until my heart raced and my lungs begged for the thin mountain air.  I have never danced more in my life.

Finally, the ceremony was over and I relinquished my Kingdom.

Charles and I drove the long drive back to Kigali.  I got to see the beautiful mountains (that were all cultivated and farmed right to the very peak) in the daylight.  The hills in Gatsibo were excellent, but the mountains were magnificent. Massive, green, cloud-touched emeralds rose up to the sky and were  hatched with gardens of maize or banana or coffee.

Lastly, we stopped at the Virunga Hotel.  One of the more pricey lodges in Rwanda and the view alone was worth it.  It tops a hill that overlooks Rwanda’s twin lakes.

This image isn’t mine, but it is nice.

This is mine.

Ultimately, I was dropped at Kigali airport and then headed home on the 30 hour journey to get back to Northern Virginia.  The jet-lag still has a hold on me, but it is waning.

I will never forget this trip and am honored to have been chosen to be amongst such wonderful people (within Hobsons and without).

Someday, I will go back.